Ett Svenskt Mysterium!

In the spirit of exploration, I have started using many different routes to get back to my apartment on Ringvägen on the island Södermalm. I get off the bus off at different stops, catch different buses and take a walk from my apartment returning by another route. One evening a couple of weeks ago, on approaching my apartment through a park situated between the river and Ringvägen, I came across a fenced off piece of land in the middle of a grassy area; this is in a fairly highly populated urban area. However, I could see evidence of some sort of livestock! I prowled around looking at the imprint of hooves on the ground and had my suspicions.



A few days later I walked up the hill, through another park and then down towards the mysterious empty area. As I approached I saw two grey Arab stallions being led across the zebra crossing and into the fenced off area. The horses, when set free, proceeded to cavort around with great enjoy ment. This is in built-up area, around the corner from where I live on a Stockholm island! I was entranced, ecstatic, there were not only horses on my doorstep but they were some of the most beautiful horses imaginable. Arab horses hold their tails very high and are also extremely highly spirited. What were they doing there?

Here is where they live The Orion Theatre. Yes, they are in Stockholm to perform - but not alone. Six grey Arab stallions perform with six mime artists. They are appearing at the theatre up until May. Here's the poster for the performance but it does not do justice to these magnificent animals. And so beautifully mannered as well. You have probably guessed by now that I did more than observe.



The woman who works with these horses is part of a large Scandinavian circus family from Denmark. They have a total of 52 horses in Denmark and took part in an opera The Magic Flute with the same artistic director Lars Rudolfsson. It was at the Opera Hedeland - 'The theatre’s mission is to present the large opera-titles for a wide audience at the unique amphitheatre, seating more than 3500 people. One full scale opera is produced annually'. Here is a picture of the woman, Suzanne Berdino, working with some Friesan horses when they performed at the theatre last year.As you have probably guessed by now, I did more than observe. I couldn't contain my enthusiasm and it was evident that I was a fellow horse woman. We soon ended up in a long discussion on horse behaviour and I was taken across and shown the horse accommodation and the performing area. It was amazing! The horses had been there since March so had been there through the snow, ice and the cold. The stables had been constructed and air conditioning had been installed. These horses were looked after magnificently. I was, of course, introduced to them - wow! I was invited to be backstage for an evening performance last week. That was fascinating seeing the level of concentration of the mime artists, the woman trainer and the horses themselves.

But nothing prepared me for actually seeing the performance from the audience. I bought my ticket and, with great excitement, went back two nights later to be part of the audience. The performance was incredible, magical, breathtaking and at times totally surreal. The mime artists (some of whom had had no contact with horses until they started these performances) were amazing. The horses were beautiful - these are stallions and are running free. Talking to Suzanne, the trainer, a few days later I realised what an incredible mental effort is needed to keep control of the entire performance. Of course, every performance is slightly different. At one point, early in the performance just one white stallion comes out and joins the mime artists. The horse is free and the mime artists mimic whatever it does. During the final scene six horses are moving (trotting) in a circle around a semi-dark arena while above their heads six mime artists are suspended from a large rotating wheel. The horses each in turn swing around in a circle; above their heads the mime artists do somersaults in the air. You would have to see it to believe it!!!

A journey to Landsort

Landsort is the name of the lighthouse on the island of Öja and is the Stockholm archipelago's most southern point. It is a popular place for birdwatching. Apologies now to anyone expecting to read about the profusion of birds on the island - I saw very few. As a people- watcher I guess my attention is elsewhere.









The journey to Landsort entailed catching two buses, two trains and a ferry seriously crammed with people. Here is a photograph from my journey (sorry about the quality) - I just love the way the Swedish treat their dogs! These people had a special blanket that they laid over their knees so that the dog could sit on it if he wished. The use of blankets in Sweden is warming in more ways than one. There seem to be blankets for every purpose - ones to use when you sit outside a restaurant, bar or cafe, ones for animals etc. I do wonder what would happen in the UK if blankets were made available in pubs?




This is the view from the ferry at Ankarudden. A rather sombre sight.









Arriving at Landsort (as the island is commonly known) was exciting as this was my first experience of the archipelago. It was a very small harbour!















Here is where the title of the blog becomes relevant - förlorade i Stockholm. I had previously read that the Swedish are self sufficient and see it as weakness to ask 'unnecessary' questions. I had decided on my previous visit that I would try to find my way around without asking directions! A major step for me as, being a particularly gregarious person, I like to enter into conversation and find out more about the place through talking to people. As we left the ferry it became apparent that most people were in large groups. I was alone. People set off in different directions with some sense of purpose - I meandered down a charming little lane into the centre of the tiny community and set off on the path towards the lighthouse. One of the pilots from the ferry saw me looking at this sculpture and explained that it was to celebrate the centenary of a pilot who had funded the building of the road on the island. I gladly entered into conversation!



The sculptor later allowed me to take a close-up of the four different surfaces of the carving. The actual surface of the carving of the figure of the pilot (AH) is smooth. The rock is black although it looks grey with dust here. Sadly, I couldn't quite understand what he was telling me about the type of rock.





Having eaten my lunch by the lighthouse and seen more birdwatchers than birds I set off to walk to the other end of the island (4 or 5km). I wanted to see the chapel - I understood that this was the site of the road benefactor's (AH) home and he had given it to the island for a chapel.

Further on along the island road I came across the Labyrinth. According to the information about the island this place has 'magical' properties and if the fishermen walked through this labyrinth it would guard them against mishap at sea. Regardless of the truth in this there is certainly evidence that people have walked around and around this 'labyrinth'. We don't have to see the people who have walked on the path before us we just need to see the imprints on the ground. Luckily as I was alone I could experiment a little with trying to walk in the countours. I do think that the circular path had been walked by many people over time. However the purpose of this ritual is interesting. Ostensibly, the ritual helped to guard against harm. But what consequence did it have behaviourally? It would seem that it would be the same as religion - to encourage cooperation. All those fishermen who walked the labyrinth and then in later times went to the chapel were producing an outward sign of 'belief' and more importantly cooperation.
Who is to say what they thought?

Finally, exhausted after walking the length of the island, I settled down with a Landsort lager at the 'pub' before getting the ferry back to Ankarudden and Stockholm.

The journey back to Stockholm is for another post - etiquette changes as the night draws in ...


There will also be a post on scarf-wearing in Stockholm ...